When I first started my master’s program and I had to decide what the heck I was passionate enough about to intensely research and create a thesis around. I have been in love with lace for as long as I can remember and I was dabbling in different databases seeking studies related to its use in fashion. That research led me down a rabbit hole of the types of lace, techniques and methods of lacemaking. Eventually, I found that one of the various ways to make handmade lace was crochet!
Crochet has been a hobby for me since learning it as a kid from my grandmother. I was honestly dismissive about its artistry and worthiness as rigorous academic study. It was definitely a “clouds split apart and the sun shined down on me with the angels singing” moment. If I’m going to discuss about crochet, I should start with its accepted academic definition, its defining characteristics, and whether there are any variations to that. It’s been fascinating to say the least. I believe the information should be more readily accessible, so I’m here to share my awesome finds thus far. However, I plan to update this post and the resources page as I find more studies and relevant research.
What is Crochet?
Have you ever paused to consider academic research on a craft exists? It makes sense though when you are analyzing culture, impacts, historical studies, etc. Crochet is a fiber-based artisan craft and it is a derivative from needlework using a hooked needle. It seems a majority of the techniques and knowledge of the skill was handed down through generations of all classes. Crochet is mainly documented in history as an expected and proper pastime for aristocratic ladies. , or as a necessary cottage industry for others.
The term crochet literally means “small hook”. It is french in origin from the 1840s. The accepted definition is “a form of needlework done with a needle having a small hook at one end for drawing the thread or yarn through intertwined loops” (Dictionary.com, n.d.). Truthfully, I’m not sure if any modern-day crocheter would refer to it as a needlework now though. While medium-weight to bulky fibers seem to be the standard medium of choice, plenty of artisans get creative with a plethora of other resources like wire, balloons, and glass among several others.
Since 1966, in The Primary Structures of Fabric, two types of interlooped fabrics have been classified – knitting and crocheting. The difference is that crocheting has loops interact and work with loops both laterally and vertically from the previous row, whereas in knitting, the loops only interact with those vertically from the previous row (Karp, 2018). A most accurate description – and while crocheters recognize the hook as the staple tool, it’s interesting to note that defining crochet as a fabric does not have a specified tool annotated as it’s maker.
Origins of Crochet
Origins of crochet are somewhat murky and difficult to pinpoint exactly with enough supporting evidence. The identifying term crochet shows up in documented publications prior to the 18th century, and there are existing crocheted pieces from different countries and eras (Karp, 2018). Although firmly embedded in European history, it is very possible that the technique existed elsewhere and inspired someone to introduce it back in Europe where it became a very popular method for handmade lace in Europe.
Why is crochet important?
When I first started graduate school, I didn’t assume much about my crocheting hobby. I wanted to find studies on lace itself, or its use in fashion. It was during that journey that I found there was a link between the history of lace and the history of fashion, with crochet linking both. The existing research to see that connection or its importance is limited. They seem to focus on economic and sociopolitical conditions of the time period and my study is what eventually spurred the creation of this blog. Historical documentation and studies are done on several other forms of artistry and it’s impact or effects – music, painting, etc. Crochet is no different. It too is an artform worthy of study and research, as well as a means of an enjoyable pastime for anyone.
How to get started with crochet
Seriously, all it takes is a hook and a fiber of choice… although I’d recommend a medium-weight yarn for ease of learning. There is a huge range of hook sizes and yarn/thread weights, but what you choose to start with doesn’t really matter a ton. You can follow the recommended hook size, or go with a bigger or smaller hook. Some obvious limitations exists, such as trying to use a 1.25mm hook with a super bulky yarn – you won’t get very far and just end up frustrated. Bu bottom line is you have a little more flexibility than you think and you can start without too much stress about what to start with. I suggest starting with a light to medium-weight, solid-colored fiber without extra “fancy” elements (snubs, mohair, fuzzy, variegated, etc.). I also recommend starting with either a cotton or similar fiber (nylon, polyester, acrylic blends). Avoid the silkier contents in the beginning to establish your dexterity and preferred tension level. The vast majority of yarn labels have the recommended hook size to use located on its label, making it pretty easy to decide where to start.
Tips for success in crochet
If you are just starting out, resist the urge to splurge on expensive hooks and a whole bunch of yarn. Pick easy, beginner-friendly patterns to figure out if you’d truly love the work you are creating. Take your time and practice to improve your skills. You can make any pattern one color even if the pattern shows multiple colors to simplify. Heck, you could just make swatches of fabric from your thread or yarn. Swatches are literally just sample squares you’d create with either different stitches or by changing hook size. Swatches give great practice to get your tension and technique down. Plus, you also benefit from them by having physical representation for any future design work. In the future, swatches are a great way to warm up your crocheting muscles.
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Frequently Asked Questions
The last thing you need to know about crochet
Crochet is an art form that is worthy of study and a delightful pastime for anyone of almost any age. I sincerely hope that you’ll give crochet a chance if you’ve never tried it before. I’d love to hear your thoughts or about any other resources that I can add to the site in a comment below.
References
- Karp, C. (2018). Defining crochet. Textile History 49(2), 208-223. https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1491689
- Dictionary (n.d.) Crochet. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/crochet